Loading...
French river was the frontier of modern civilization when European setters tried to push the way west from st. Laurence river. Today, it becomes a main attraction to those who want escape from civilization for a while.
The experience we had from this trip certainly demonstrated its true value of this purpose.
We left early on Friday, august the 3rd, and arrived at Hartley bay marine around 12:00pm. Our group had 8 people, all of them had some experience on water - from being-able-swim-15-meters to paddled canoe in easy wave from time to time, but no one had white water experience. Well, I was told that French river was flat water so white water experience was not required.
On that day, the wind was about 15km/h north east - a fair weather for paddling. it was easy on the first 3 km or so, except finding the right direction. When our canoes turn into Wanapitei Bay, the water opened up and we were forced to run against the wind. We tried keeping ourselves in narrow passages between islands but there were still open water bodies between islands. On those places, the wave was pushing from sideway to our canoes that rocked like swine. In those situations, we had to manage the canoe run across wave.
By zigzagging in Wanapitei Bay, our fleet slowed down. Our targeted destination was the elbow, where there were two good campsites at south corners of the intersection of the main channel and eastern channel. When we reached the elbow, it was already 7:30pm but both campsites had been taken.
Thus, we had to paddle further towards Dalis rapids. There were campsites on the map, but we couldn't find any mark on expected locations. The sun was going down; we were exhausted and whenever we approached some place that might be used as a campsite, we founded that it was taken. People offered us to share their campsites but we had a large group. We would prefer having a campsite of our own for privacy of others and ourselves. Finally, we found one campsite that was at the north shore near Dalis rapids - for we could hear rolling water.
It was 8:30pm now and we made our first camping fire at the shore of French River, thanks to Mike "Saw" and Steve "Axe" who made their reputation for cutting fire wood whenever we stopped at a camping site.
We should had adjourned the day but we still had a lesson to be learned. Mike tried to fetch some clean water off the shore. He carried a bucket and pushed a canoe into the river. When he tried lifting a bucket of water in the middle of the river, he lost balance and fell into the water. He was still confused what was wrong causing the boat flip over when he swam back to the show in his "wet suite".
The lesson learned was that you should always balance your life no matter on the solid ground or floating water.
Now, the camping fire had dimmed away, stars popped up in the sky. And milk way appeared with full of myth that we had not yet fully understood. Silently dialogging with stars, we all fell into sleep on the shore of French river.
(To be continued)
Link to pictures: URL
The next day morning, our fleet started moving around 9:30am. Our destination of the day was Obstacle Island.
We have to pass Dalis rapids and then turn into Georgian Bay. There was a portage (180 meter at your left) for Dalis rapids on the map. and Georgian bay could have high wave. But the route should be much shorter comparing to that of the first day.
Dalis Rapids has 3 to 4 stages depending on how to count them.
Soon, the sound of rolling water got stronger. It was from Dalis Rapids which had 3 to 4 stages depending on how to count them. We saw motor boats gathered at a small bay, people were talking - exchanging ideas about the rapids which could be seen as the water suddenly dropped away in about 50 meters ahead. Lucy and I made our canoe at a bay so that we could climb to high ground and assess water level.
While we were talking to a local guy other canoes of our fleet were coming too fast towards the rapids without knowing the dangerous. We yielded at them, "pull over, pull over". At first they were confused but soon they realized what was awaiting them ahead. Luckily, they managed pull canoes into the bay.
Let's go back to the local guy companied with a black dog who seemed authentic to French river. We asked him where was the portage to pass the rapids. "There is no portage for canoe. You can walk canoe over the rapids if you got enough rope, just take valuables with you; the water has dropped two feet in past two weeks." He also walked with me to show me where the canoe should go through. The first one could run canoe close to the shore while control the canoe from the cliff with ropes. Than went down to the water and lead the canoe pass the second swift. The third one was tricky for too much rocks around the shore. We had to let the canoe run though the main current where water was rolling.
We managed two empty canoes through the rapids - did not let them go though main current but lifted canoes when passing the third rapid.
The third canoe was mine; I wanted to try what the man told me. I did not empty the canoe but did take out valuables - my digital camera. With rope in hands, I made the canoe pass through the first two swifts. For the third one, l had to give away more rope so that the canoe could go through main current. Everything seemed fine; the canoe was turning into main current slowly.
But suddenly the water took charge and brought it into the rapid. It pulled all rope from my hands with in half second and the force were so fierce that I was almost pulled into the rapid. I had no choice but let the rope slip from my hands and the boat was gone into the rolling current without control. It turned 90 degree before fell down to the rapid, disappeared from my eyes. When I got to high rocks on the shore, I saw the poor canoe had filled with water running away with current companied with backpack, tent bag, sleeping bags and the cooler which was our main food reserve.
I ran to canoe along the shore, thinking what I could go without it, and without camping gears and food.
Now the river widened, and the running away canoe slowed down. There was a chance to catch it back. I jumped in one of the first transported canoe and asked Naer go with me. But no paddle nor life jacket near by. I yield to others two hundred meters back on the rapids - bring me paddles and, yes, life jackets.
Waited, waited and waited while watching my canoe and stuff drifting further away. Finally, we got paddles and jackets.
Naer and I used all our strength to push the canoe toward the uncontrolled one. Along the way, we picked up bags, sleeping forms and so on. The running away canoe was getting into another swift, we might not be able bring it back if it went though the swift. Luckily, we got it before it was too later. But now our canoe was getting into the swift too if we would stopped one or two full strength strokes. Finally we cut the swift current and brought both canoes into a bay full of mud and weeds - but it was a safe place. Oh some thing else has gone with the current - my water bottle - I had to let it go.
There were other bags and the cooler still floating on the water, they could soon follow the lead of my bottle and run away. Naer and I backed into the canoe and chased other running aways. My backpack was at the risk, we had to cut the current off before the bag getting into the swift.
May be both of us used too much force, the canoe almost tipped; at least I was tipped into water. We were very close to the mouth of the swift; the canoe lost balance and I was in water.
There was only one place could keep us safe; a few rocks that likes beard of the mouth. We had to hug the beard before being swallowed. And we did. With all the power of one single paddle and two flog lags and strong survival instinct minds, we did it.
Lucy and Steve had run another canoe to help us. We together picked up all floating bags and the cooler which was still holding all food packed in. But we could not find Lucy's bag. Certainly, we did not see any bag running away from the swift; but it might have sunken. With sadness on her face, we paddled back to the base of our group. When we were getting closer, they yielded to us, there was a bag on the other side of the river. It was Lucy's bag, we claimed it back.
Counting our loses, a water bottle, as I have mentioned, a fishing rod which had sunken, and a pair of socks. Not too bad, eh?
On the shore, we discussed what have happened and why while we were taking a break. It came to conclusion that two lessens should have been learned. first, never leave you luggage unattended, even in the most remote area. And second, never allow paddles and life jackets far away from the boat - without them a boat is not a boat at all.
Lucy was checking her stuff. Sleeping bag was soaked; most clothes were wet except few under garments in a zipped bag. I did not check my bag. What had happened had happened; we had to move on. If we could arrive our destination early, we should have time to dry clothes under sun.
So we resumed our pursued. Running though the swift where we battled with running away canoe was not difficult. After the swift, we found some small stuff, an apple, two water bottles - no, they were not my water bottle I mentioned - we collected them as garbage.
Paddling further towards Georgian bay, we could feel its power. The wave getting higher; wind picked up as well, still against us. We had hard time maintain direction. Sometimes, canoes were pushed to the shore and sometimes they turned 90 degree moving backwards by the wind.
When I saw the first navigation post in the center of the river, I thought it was the mark of entering Georgian bay and started looking turn point on my left. I was wrong, we were still a mile away from the mouth. This mile was definitely longer than it should be for wind and wave pushing us to any directions except forward. And the further we went, the stronger the wind; the higher the wave.
Finally , we made left turn into Georgian bay, at bluff point. Now the wind and wave smashed on our canoe side way. Water splashed onto us and our gears. Pool Lucy, who had spread her sleeping bag on canoe, hoping it could be dried under the sun, was watching her sleeping bag absorbed more water than before, but couldn't stop a single stroke of her paddle. We navigated along the shore, afraid that the wave and wind could be worse if we were further away from the shore.
I had to make a stop for checking the map. It was impossible stopping a paddle stroke and doing something else. So Lucy and I made our canoe to a dead tree trunk at Claw island for I thought it could be softer than rocks. But we were unable to reach the trunk, the wave had pushed us to rocks. It was even worse for the wave constantly smashed on us and bounced back from the rocks. We collected a lot of water in our canoe unwillingly and all bags were soaked in water.
A lesson leaned was that never allow your enemy push you against wall. Fight back and try to escape earlier if you can not win.
Finally, we managed our canoe off the rocks and moving towards obstacle island.
I had made my decision, no mater what we would camp on obstacle island - it was not possible moving any further. We did not see campsite symbol - a small orange square with a tent symbol and campsite number beneath it. Actually it was impossible to see such a small symbol when you were on open water. But I did see a tent on the shore - the place had been taken!
We banded left towards inner side of the bay, away from fierce open water and found a small harbor between two rocks. Parked in the harbor, I climbed to the rocks investigating whether this place was inhabitable. The place was not bad. Lots of giant rocks, and a few spot suitable for pitching tents. That's it, we were make it our home here tonight.
But we could not see other canoes; worried their safety, I climbed to the peak rock of the place, waving a life jacket to those tiny dots on open water while Lucy was communicating with them using a walkie-talkie. Those dots appeared clearly now. They were our fleet. Mike and his daughter had landed on another island - should be flat island. Steve and Vivian, who had a walkie-talkie, met with mike on the island. Naer and Julie were stuck on a rock and had to lift the canoe over the rock. Finally, all of them came to home safe and smiling.
Lucy had spread her sleeping bag and other stuff on the rocks. I had not opened my bag yet not knowing how much water it had absorbed unwillingly when it fell into current and than soaked in water in our boat.
Surprisingly, my sleeping bag and clothes were dry, thanks for a garbage bag I packed as inner layer of my bag. And my digital camera was safe too packed in a plastic bag for toner.
Mike told me what he had seen on the island where he had parked. A memorial symbol with verses - Sleep in peace XXX who was drawn at this place where he loved. We would sleep in peace here at the place we loved, tonight and only tonight.
The stone sculpture was named "torrent loyal turtle" for the shape of its head stone. If you would have a chance to visit obstacle island, please salute to this sculpture for it would bring you good luck.
This place had plenty of fire wood which saved Mike "Saw" and Steve "Axe" great deal of their wood work. The reason was that few people had visited here. We did see signs left from human being though, fire pit and burned wood were recognizable.
In the third day morning, I got up at 5:10am for I wanted to watch sun rise from Georgian bay. In the north east, only a slice of light could be seen. But judging by color of clouds, l knew sun rise would be right there behind those rocks between flat island and Dorion island. Then the clouds got brighter; golden rays sprat on every single rocks and water. I could never forget the moment when the sun rose behind the tree line. It was the god who made the speculating view; and yes, the nature is the god. I took lots of pictures of this sun rise but they could not tell you the true beauty of the scene; you have to be there. And luckily, I was there; Lucy was there too.
After breakfast, we set to leave. Today we were going back to the elbow through bass lake.
The only passage was at the north end of obstacle island. That was why the island named. So we traveled north east. Not much wind nor wave at this time. And the breeze wind was behind us pushing our canoes gently. Soon we arrived at the portage to bass lake. It was basically a wooden bridge of 240 meters long. There was a trailer and two barrow carts. The trailer got a flat tire on its front wheel and one barrow cart was completely broken - typical makes of civilization, weren't they?
Carrying a canoe with the trailer was equally hard as carrying it on shoulders. We only tried once and then decided carry canoes the normal way as all paddlers had done. Lucy wanted to try but had to give up for she could not hold the canoe steadily. So she volunteered to be my photographer. After the portage, there was not much to say, the water was calm, wind was helping us. We just enjoyed paddling on the way to the elbow; chatted occasionally, listened to the rathym of water we created with paddle strokes; and watched giant stones along the shore.
When we reached the elbow, I found that camping site 622 was awaiting for us. I called Julie and Naer who were ahead of us for parking. They could not believe that we already reached our destination for the day. Comparing to the struggle we had had the first two days, it seemed that we have not yet warmed up but defeated our enemy already.
In any case, the campsite was good. It had plenty space and great view to the north west where sun set would be.
Since we had plenty time today, we determined to catch some fish. "No fish, no dinner" as we joked to ourselves. But we were not luck on fishing. All afternoon, we caught none, even no fish bite. We had to call Rachel for rescue; since people were saying kids had better luck. And yes, they do. Rachel finally caught one. Not big one but good enough for us to keep our promise - we could have dinner now without eating our own words.
Mike was a good fish man. He did not participate our fishing game for he knew it was not the right time at right spot. Before sun set, he took a canoe and fishing rods went to fishing with his daughter. He came back after sun set, empty handed. It was not that they did not catch fish. They got fish on their hooks, big ones, too big that had broken string and got away. At that time, I was thinking of my fishing rod. It had stronger string but had sunken into the French river the day before.
Another day, another sunset. We were all happy that we had a relaxing day.
The fourth day of the trip was back to the Hartley bay and back to reality. After three days and nights at French river and Georgian bay, we were ready to come back to civilized world and face real challenges in the real world.
The original plan was go east from the elbow to eastern channel and go north to canoe bay channel and then back to Wanapitei bay. But since Naer and Julie were eager to go back to reality, we decided take the route we went in.
In the main channel, we did not feel any wave; the wind was still push us from back gently. Even the intersection of western channel and main channel seemed rather calm. The water body looked much smaller than we felt on the first day. Observed such affect, I had to accept existentialism - your experience defines your world.
When we were approaching the Hartley bay, all of us felt that it was too soon to go back to reality. So we chained all canoes together; just wanted slow down. As people were saying, there was no banquet that never ended, we finally reached the Hartley bay.
When we were unloading our stuff, Steve brought me a water bottle. "is this yours?" he asked. Yes, it was mine the one that I had witnessed floating away from the swift. How it came to here? A girl picked it up and left here at Hartley bay marina. Marine staff told Steve. "Does she leave a message in the bottle?" I joked. I was so happy that my lost had been found - it was beyond the value of the bottle; it was my good luck, at least I wished it was.
On the way back to high way, Lucy cried out "I do not want leave, it is too short."
"I can drop you here, you still have a chance."
"But I do not want be here alone."
Sure, no one want be alone in an uncivilized world. Even more sure, we would never leave any one behind for we were a group of French river veterans.
(the end)